Packing for once in a lifetime trip to Sakteng necessitated a camera, to capture every photo opportunity the trek, through the wilderness to the remote nomadic community, offered.
With the Canon G12 snug inside the rucksack with other necessities, the only thing left was to sleep, and ensure rest for the long day ahead. But insomnia crept in and excitement about the trip took over.
Sakteng is a remote village located about 3000 mts above sea level in the eastern part of Bhutan. It is famous for its unique culture, language and attire; or so articles written about the nomadic culture would have us know. Many articles have been written but seeing and experiencing firsthand is worth more than all the information books can give.
The day was July 9 and the time 5 am when the trek started from Phongmey village, where the 33 km motor road from Trashigang town ends. The village is officially 3 days walk from Phongmey but with the Choejung Tshechu festival schedule for tomorrow, the destination had to be reached in a day and that was not impossible.
With the first step towards Sakteng, suspicious thoughts formed questions formed inside the head. Was it worth an effort, entailing 12 hours of trudging through the wilderness, to see and experience Sakteng? Soon weary from sore feet and heat, and altitude sickness taking over, the doubts took over. But alluring photographs of Nomads and their villages, and of young girls with red cheeks and tribal dresses, which repeatedly kept teasing the thought, beckoned.
The path which ran amid thick forests, occasionally passing a waterfall or giant rocks, was howeverlittered with plastic bottles and wrappers of junk food. No signs of incredible wildlife or exotic creatures.
By 4, in the afternoon, a trekking mate commented 70 % of the journey was travelled. The littered track deposited more doubts and misgivings. It questioned the appeal of Sakteng. And the sight of horses, bleeding from eyes where fat leeches clung, was all the more disheartening.
The Camera remained in the rucksack. Time ambled Dusk approached and, even as the hands of my watch pointed to 6.30 pm, Sakteng was nowhere at sight.
At 7.30 pm, the first sight of Sakteng, which had a green meadow around clustered well-built houses, the knee buckled and tears rolled down unrestrained. The doubts were cleared and Sakteng regained its glory.
The nomad with a beautiful smile, which lit up the darkness, greeted the group. With a smile like that, hospitality and generosity was only to be expected. Everybody knew eachother, and there were sense of camaraderie, which was a beautiful feeling.
The next day was full of surprises. The nomads talked in Dzongkha, (National Language of Bhutan)even among themselves. Women had painted nails, lipstick on, and coloured blonde and brown hair. Men were dressed in jeans and converses.
Sakteng may be poor in terms of road accessibility, but their minds are rich and advanced. Schools are advanced with technologies like computer, laptops and internet connection, mobile phones and Bhutanese movies and music.
At the nomad’s home, coffee was poured instead of milk or butter tea. The kitchen has a line of coffee bottles. “It’s a frequent visit to Trashigang” said a nomad. “And its always an opportunity for us to pick every little modern amenity we can, so we can modernize our village.”
The Women having dealt with night hunting for a long time said it continued even to this day. “But we women proudly announce who visited us last night,” said one. “When we do that, men somehow tend to become cowards and they leave us in peace,”
The postcard photographs were somewhat erased from mind in the three days stay in Sakteng. Modernization is fast travelling the length and breadth of Bhutan. Its only to be expected that nomads will change too. More and more are getting educated. But this doesn’t those who are not. The nomads are an intelligent and smart lot.
From the three days in Sakteng, I was carrying back memories that would last a lifetime. The g12 finally proved its worth. It served its purpose. It took shots, numerous of changes happening withi the community- shots ill share with others.
Posts
